13th Century Medieval Steel Spear Butt Cap, 10 cm

Forged Viking Spear Butt Cap, 30 mm Socket

Protective Spear Shoe for the Lower Shaft

This fitting may also be described as a spear shoe, spear ferrule, butt cap, butt spike or lower shaft socket. It is fitted to the end opposite the spearhead, protecting the timber when the weapon is rested on the ground and reducing wear around the vulnerable end grain.

The fitting has an elongated tapered body with a closed, rounded point. A longitudinal split allows a small amount of adjustment around a properly shaped wooden shaft. The side hole, measuring approximately 0.16 inches across, is intended for a suitable rivet, pin or screw.

Visible hammer marks, dark forge scale and irregular surface patination are retained as part of its character. Each example consequently has a slightly individual texture and appearance.

Spear Ferrules from Antiquity to the Middle Ages

Metal fittings were placed on the lower ends of spears from antiquity and continued to appear in various forms throughout the medieval period. The ancient Greek dory, for example, could have a metal butt fitting known as a sauroter. It protected the shaft, served as a counterweight and allowed the spear to be planted without resting the wood directly on the ground.

Simpler iron shoes and sockets were also used on Roman, Germanic, Viking Age and medieval shafts. Their form depended on the region, purpose of the weapon and traditions of the individual smith. This product is broadly inspired by spear fittings used from antiquity through the early and high medieval periods, rather than being an exact copy of one archaeological find.

Weight added to the butt of a spear may also alter its balance and handling. The actual effect depends upon the length and timber of the shaft, the weight of the spearhead and the construction of the finished weapon.

How to Fit the Butt Cap

• Select a straight, resilient wooden shaft. Ash, beech or another tough timber is suitable for many historical replicas.
• Measure the actual internal diameter of the supplied socket and gradually shape the end of the shaft with a knife, rasp and abrasive paper.
• Taper the timber so that it contacts the inside of the socket evenly throughout its depth.
• Carry out a dry fitting first. The cap should seat firmly without being driven on with excessive force.
• Use the side hole to mark the fixing position, then drill an appropriate pilot hole through the shaft.
• Secure the fitting with a rivet, strong pin or suitable screw. The fastener is not included.
• Do not force the longitudinal split wider or hammer it tightly closed, as this could crack or permanently distort the socket.
• After assembly, confirm that the cap does not move and that the chosen fastener leaves no exposed sharp edge.

A suitable adhesive for timber and metal may provide additional security on decorative or theatrical replicas. We nevertheless recommend retaining a mechanical fixing through the existing hole.

Technical Specifications

Because each fitting is individually worked, its dimensions, shape, split width, colour, surface texture and hammer marks may vary slightly from one piece to another.

Care and Safe Use

• Remove excess protective oil before installation and inspect the inside of the socket.
• After outdoor use, clean and dry the fitting thoroughly and apply a light coat of non-acidic conservation oil.
• Store the completed weapon in a dry place and avoid leaving the metal in prolonged contact with wet ground.
• Inspect it regularly for corrosion, cracking, deformation, loose fixings and damage to the wooden shaft.
• Do not drive the fitting onto an oversized shaft. Excessive pressure may split the wood or damage the socket.
• Do not use it as a chisel, lever, tent peg or tool for breaking hard objects.
• The solid metal fitting can cause serious injury. Never thrust or strike it towards an unprotected person.
• Follow the organiser’s rules during reenactment, stage combat or LARP. Rigid metal butt fittings may be prohibited at some events.
• The safety of the completed spear also depends upon the shaft, spearhead, fasteners and quality of assembly.

Recommended Accessories

• Ash spear shaft approximately 1.18 inches / 30 mm in diameter for ancient, Viking and medieval weapon replicas.
• Socketed steel spearhead appropriate to equipment of the 8th–15th centuries.
• Historical-style rivet or steel fixing pin for securing the ferrule mechanically.
• Rasp, carving knife and abrasive paper for fitting the wooden shaft accurately.
• Steel conservation oil for protecting the naturally forged surface against corrosion.
• Leather spear carrier or retaining strap for camp equipment and display.