Search results: "Class D"
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Battle (show) combats at reenactment, i.e. prearranged choreography and combats with swords and other bladed weapons is more and more popular. A very large selection of different battle ready weapons of different producers and brands are offered in our internet store. There are big differences in processing technology, used materials and material quality and of course the price from manufacturer to manufacturer.
It is often very difficult to identify an advantage of a blade and evaluate it in comparison with another. All battle-ready swords have in common just the fact that they have dull blade edges and rounded tips. To allow a better comparison, some of our battle-ready weapons we divided into the following three classes.
The first Class A is the for best blades - made of premium quality steel, perfectly balanced and carefully tempered to a high hardness. These bladed weapons are especially suited for professionals and fro those who perform show combats as a hobby, but quite often and put the acent on a high quality.
The Class B mainly includes swords produced in the Czech Republic. Their blades are made of high quality spring steel. In comparison to Class-A-swords, they are more robust and weigh a bit more. They come in handy in battles and all sword combats that are not practised in advance.
The swords of the Class C are also made of high-grade steels, but their blades are not so hard as those of the Class A. When fighting against harder blades nicks can easily occur. They are pretty well balanced, but can weigh a bit more. They are often an ideal weapons for both demanding beginners and for advanced swordsmen.
Swords of the Class D provide beginners with an inexpensive yet secure way to own a battle-ready sword so that they make their firsts, lighter sword-fights. They are ideal choice for anyone who wants to have a practical battle-ready-sword, but do not intend to used it often, such as bowmen. The blades are not especially hard and thus nicks may arise in combats against harder blades.
The legal warranty of two years is of course applied to our Battle-Reade-Weapons. However it should be noted, that the obligation to provide evidence of deficiencies (e.g. material defects) that were already present on the purchase and have not been reported within 6 months, is to be delivered by the buyer. Complaints after 6 months are therefore often difficult and unhappy for both sides.
A battle-ready-sword is naturally a subject to wear and tear. Even the best and most expensive sword will get nicked after a heavy or intensive use, the guard and the handle can get loose. This is a normal phenomenon, as very strong forces act on the materials. Blades can even break if they already are weakened by several deep nicks. These are usually no legitimate reasons for complaints but normal result of natural wear and tear. Any battle-ready-sword will never be the same after you have used it, no matter how good or bad it was.
The 54SiCr6 spring steel from which the sword blades are produced, have a high fatigue resistance. The chromium and silicon alloyed steel has high stability, hardness and abrasion resistance. A mold is filled with a prescribed composition of metals and these are then melted into an ingot in the steelworks. It is then rolled out to the required steel thickness. During hot rolling, the material becomes compact or denser (the crystalline structure is homogenized).
The blacksmith workshop receives the steel as rolled sheets. It is further cut into strips (with laser or water jet), milled and ground. Before extremely hard tool steel was developed, the steel could not be milled and could only be formed after heating in the furnace.
Some customers want their sword to be made in a traditional way and insist on forged blades. By forged steel, especially if the blacksmith's traces remain visible, the eye of every bladed-weapon-fan is pleased. The modern, technically precise machining leaves no room for minor imperfections and deviations. Modernly worked swords usually lack individuality and authentic appearance.
You can find views asserting that the new heating in the furnace positively affects the carbon content in the steel, thereby improving the mechanical properties of the steel. Some also claim that by forging the material becomes even denser. However, many years of practical experience in our forge have not shown any differences between industrially rolled and forged sword blades.
So that the purchase does not end so often with return, you should be able to determine your shoe size correctly. Here you will find simple instructions, how to measure your length of the foot that determines the shoe size.
Stand with your foot on a sheet of paper and slide your heel against the wall. Make sure that your weight is evenly distributed between both legs. You can wear the socks you are planning to wear with the shoes you would like to buy. Do not push the heel against the wall. Ask another person to mark on the paper where the farthest part of your foot reaches. It is usually the thumb that reaches the furthest. The mark should be drawn straight vertically. The distance of the mark from the wall corresponds to your foot length. You can then easily determine your correct shoe size according to the sizing chart below.
Shoe size
|
Foot length
|
Insole length
|
---|---|---|
EU 35 | 230 mm | 235 mm |
EU 36 | 236 mm | 241 mm |
EU 37 | 242 mm | 247 mm |
EU 38 | 249 mm | 254 mm |
EU 39
|
255 mm
|
260 mm |
EU 40
|
261 mm
|
266 mm |
EU 41
|
268 mm
|
273 mm |
EU 42
|
274 mm
|
279 mm |
EU 43
|
281 mm
|
286 mm |
EU 44
|
288 mm
|
293 mm |
EU 45
|
295 mm
|
300 mm |
EU 46
|
302 mm
|
307 mm |
EU 47
|
309 mm
|
314 mm |
If your foot length is between the specified values (e.g. 278 mm), we recommend to choose the size "made-to-measure" and then fill in your measurements into this form.