Historical Crossbow Amis

This crossbow replica was manufactured after the original from Konopiste. The tiller (stock) is made of basswood and the lathe (prod) is made of glass laminate. The trigger mechanism and the stirrups are made of steel. The surface treatment was carried out in the traditional way after historical sources. The lathe is attached to the till by metal brackets. This model represents a transitional crossbow form from the wood to steel lathe. It is a simplified replica that complies completely with the purpose of re-enactment and exhibition.

Price incl. 21% VAT: 280
This item is held in some countries for dangerous object and its carrying or possession may be subject to local regulation.
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Availability: In stock 1pcs!

Price of the selection: 280
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  • Product No: 9700

Variants in stock

120lbs (54,43 kg) | without spare string
pcs (1 pcs In stock)

Historical Crossbow Amis

  • 82 cm total length
  • 71 cm length tiller (stock) 
  • 6,3x5 cm tiller profile at the lathe (prod)
  • 5,4*2,2 cm tiller profile at the end
  • 65,5 cm width of the lathe
  • the steel stirrup is 12 cm wide and 10 cm high
  • the trigger is hand-forged from a prism of 7x7 mm
  • the tiller (stock) is made from lime tree and has of  dark brown colour
  • the rotary nut (catch) is made of steel and has a diameter of 4 cm and a width of 2.4 cm
  • the draw length is approx. 150 mm (5,9")
  • the lathe (prod) is made of fibreglass (not steel)
  • the string is always constructed according to the selected draw weight. It concist of 30-40 Dacron strands 
  • The lathe is 65,5 cm long
  • Recommended arrow length 30cm
  • Available draw weight 120 and 150 pounds
  • Weight 1960 g
  • Made in Czech Republic

Please do not shoot from the crossbow without an arrow. This way you can damage the bowstring!

Please read how to replace a crossbow string.

Operation instructions

This crossbow is not a toy, you can cause with it serious injury. Read carefully these instructions!

  1. Check the crossbow before each use (bow, string, trigger, ...). Shoot only if it is completely flawless.
  2. Use only bolts supplied with the crossbow or those recommended by the manufacturer. The bolts  (arrows) must not be damaged anyhow as well.
  3. Newer dry shoot (without arrows)! You can damage the prod or the string and incur an injury doing so.
  4. After drawing the crossbow, secure the trigger against unwanted shooting. Remove the safety chock shortly before intended shooting.
  5. Please never aim at people or animals. Be especially careful if small children or pets are present.
  6. Shoot at enough strong targets. Put the targets in front of a suitable background (slope, high wall, etc.). Bounced arrows can cause damage or injury as well!
  7. If you do not use the crossbow for a longer time or it is exposed to adverse conditions (e.g. high temperature in a parked car on a sunny day), remove the string from the bow.
  8. Treat the string with a suitable lubricant or wax to extend its life span.
  9. Deal with the crossbow carefully. Do not throw with it and do not put on it any heavy things.

Maintenance of the crossbow

The crossbow requires no special care. The most stressed part is the string. It is recommended to wax it before each use - to extend its lifespan. If even one strand of the string is damaged or torn, do no shoot any longer and replace it with new one.

If your crossbow gets wet (in the rain), wipe it with a cotton cloth slightly and let it slowly (not at the radiator) dry. Then oil the metal parts with WD40 e.g. The tiller is treated with varnish from pressed linseed oil. It is possible to renew the coating after some time, but it is not necessary or even not desirable. The crossbow finish (surfaces) get with time and use so called patina, which is firstly visually beautiful and secondly gives the crossbow a historical look.

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Advisory Service: Questions and Answers

How and what materials are your daggers made from?

The daggers are approximately made as follows. The basic shape of the blade is made by a laser CNC machine. It is burned from spring steel. The semi-finished blade follows then in the groove cutter, where the cutting edge and the groove are milled. The blade is then oil-quenched and tempered to the desired hardness. Then the guard and pommel is attached to the blade tang. The tang is usually peened at the end (behind the pommel) and the cross-guard hard soldered with brass. Hardwood plates are placed under the handle wrapping from genuine cowhide so that the handle is sufficiently robust for a safe grasp. The steels surfaces obtain the desired finish in the end - with a wire brush or with a felt disc with polishing paste.

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